약용식물 추출물의 피부기능성에 관한 연구

Abstract

This study was carried out to develop the functional skin materials from the extracts of the medicinal plants.

100 plant extracts were examined for anti-bacterial activity against Staphylococcus epidermidis and 12 plants were screened. These 12 plant extracts were tested against S. epidermidis, Staphylococcus aureus, Pityrosporum ovale and along with Propionibacterium acnes, Malassezia furfur and Candida albicans which causes skin inflammation. Paper disc assay and MIC tests were carried out the various concentrations of extracts. The extracts of Agastache rugosa displayed effective growth inhibition against S. epidermidis, S. aureus, P. ovale, M. furfur, C. albicans. Aralia cordata extracts showed the considerable antimicrobial activities on two kinds of microorganisms, S. epidermidis and P. acnes. Similarly, Juniperus chinensis extracts showed antibacterial activities against S. epidermidis, P. acnes and M. furfur. In addition, A. rugosa extracts showed low MIC value on S. epidermidis (6.25 ㎍/㎖), P. ovale (3.1 ㎍/㎖) and C. albicans (3.1 ㎍/㎖). A MIC value of A. pilosa extracts was 6.25 ㎍/㎖ on S. epidermidis, and P. acnes and 3.1 ㎍/㎖ on S. aureus and P. ovale, respectively. Particularly, the extracts of M. alba displayed MIC value on 4 types of microbials such as P. acnes (6.25 ㎍/㎖), P. ovale (3.1 ㎍/㎖), M. furfur (6.25 ㎍/㎖) and C. albicans (3.1 ㎍/㎖). Also, the extracts from Artemisia capillaries, Morus alba and Thuja orientalis showed a remarkable MIC values (3.1 ㎍/㎖) against Pityrosporum ovale. These results indicate that A. rugosa, Morus alba root bark and Agrimonia pilosa whole plant have the potent anti-inflammatory activity on the skin.

Reynoutria elliptica root showed the highest polyphenol content of 209.10 ㎍/㎖. Artemisia capillaries sprout, Evodia rutaeocarpa fruit, Ephedra sinica and Plantago asiatica were also found to contain high polyphenol - 193.20, 176.60, 175.50, 174.00 ㎍/㎖, respectively. These five extracts with high polyphenol also contain relatively high flavonoid such as Reynoutria elliptica root(83.40 ㎍/㎖), Artemisia capillaries sprout (138.21 ㎍/㎖), Evodia rutaeocarpa fruit (73.70 ㎍/㎖), Ephedra sinica (56.91 ㎍/㎖) and Plantago asiatica (130.90 ㎍/㎖). The DPPH radical scavenging activity of Ephedra sinica, Reynoutria elliptica, Evodia rutaecarpa, Agrimonia pilosa, and Artemisia capillaris were 90.68 (27.51 ㎍/㎖), 92.92 (39.1 ㎍/㎖), 91.02 (49.17 ㎍/㎖), 87.80 (58.41 ㎍/㎖), 86.64 (86.43 ㎍/㎖), respectively in the extracts concentration of 400 ㎍/㎖. DPPH radical scavenging activity of these extracts were higher that of BHT (standard antioxidant). Moreover, we examined nitrate scavenging activity of these extracts on the concentration of 800 ㎍/㎖. Nitrate scavenging activity was found to decreased in the following order- Evodia rutaeocarpa fruit, Ephedra sinic, Reynoutria elliptica, Artemisia capillaries and Plantago asiatica.

The inhibition effect of the extracts on ROS production was examined in H2O2-treated HaCaT cells. ROS production was significantly inhibited by the extracts of Evodia rutaeocarpa (42.66%), Agrimonia pilosa (47.06%), Plantago asiatica (71.11%), and Ephedra sinica (71.23%). These inhibition effects were increased in dose-dependent manner.

Protective effect of extracts on HaCaT cells against H2O2, rotenone, and paraquat were investigated. The 500 μM H2O2-treated cells in presence of Ephedra sinica extract were showed an increase in the cell viability compared to only H2O2-treated cells. In addition, rotenone-treated cells were protected by Ephedra sinica and Morus alba.

Tyrosinase catalyzes melanin synthesis in skin melanocytes. Inhibition effects on tyrosinase of the 12 extracts were assayed in a cell-free system and SK-MEL-2 cells. Ephedra sinica and Morus alba displayed over 50% of tyrosinase inhibition in a cell-free system. Ephedra sinica was shown to have potent inhibition effect on tyrosinase and decreased melanin levels compared to arbutin, a standard whitening ingradient. Ephedra sinica was also found to control tyrosinase inhibition and melanin biosynthesis more successfully than α-MSH (200nM). Ephedra sinica decreased tyrosinase and tyrosinase related protein (TRP- 2) expression level effectively but it didn't affect TRP-1 expression level. These results suggest that Ephedra sinica have inhibitory effect on melanin biosynthesis and possesses anti-oxidant and anti-microbial activity.

The overall results of this study indicate that the Ephedra sinica and Morus alba have the possibility to develop as cosmetic sources for skin-whitening, skin anti-oxidant, skin anti-aging and treatment of skin-related diseases.