퍼머넌트 웨이브 디자인 과정 중에 발생하는 모발의 손상 분석과 보완에 관한 연구

Abstract

This research aims to improve the quality of the hair design demanded by customers and to minimize the damage caused by the hair designing process while choosing the right design for the hair structure based on the permanent wave, one of the hair products for the management of the hair salon. We obtained healthy hair that had not been chemically treated and sorted them into healthy hair, damaged hair, healthy+damaged hair, set healthy hair, set damaged hair, 3N dyed hair, 5R damaged hair and 9R damaged hair, administered products for perms were Ammonium thioglycolate and cysteine HCL and hair was divided into those that had treatment used and those that didn't. Methods used were divided into those naturally left and heat treatment, and implements used were ordinary rods and two kinds of tools for heat that were divided into S1 and S2 and used. Other treatments did not use the same methods. In order to find out the setting capabilities of the wave perm, we compared the hairs before and after the perm, and in order to find out the preservation rate different cold water, hot water and treatment conditions were applied. In order to find out the rate of physical damage to the hair, the tensile strength and the expansibility were checked, and the results of the SEM photos taken and evaluated to find out the morphic damage are as follows. First, the result of the setting capabilities of the wave perm was that the hair that used cysteine HCL had better molding than the hair that used Ammonium thioglycolate, hair that used treatment had better setting qualities than untreated hair and hair that had been naturally left had better setting than hair that been heat treated. Ordinary perms that used Ammonium thioglycolate had better wave setting than the S1 perms that used Ammonium thioglycolate, and healthy hair had better wave setting compared to damaged hair. Perms done before dyeing had better wave setting than perms done after and hairs had better wave setting qualities in the order VHR> DHR> V+DHR. Second, the result of the preservation rate of the wave perm was that the hair that used cysteine HCL had better molding than the hair that used Ammonium thioglycolate, hair that used treatment had better setting qualities than untreated hair and hair that had been naturally left had better setting than hair that been heat treated. The hair that had been S1 permed using Ammonium thioglycolate had good setting of the wave but came loose quickly, ordinary perms that used Ammonium thioglycolate had better preservation than the S1 perm that used Ammonium thioglycolate and perms done before dyeing had better wave preservation than perms done after. Wave preservation was better in the order VHR> DHR> V+DHR. Third, the result of the tensile strength and the expansibility test hair that had used treatment 3 times performed better than hair that had not been treated and hair that used cysteine HCL had better results overall than the hair that used Ammonium thioglycolate. As a result hair that had been used treatment and had permed with cysteine HCL was damaged the least with hair that been permed using Ammonium thioglycolate was damaged the most. ordinary perms were damaged less than S1, S1 perms and naturally left hair was damaged less than heat treated hair. In conclusion the ordinary perm did less damage to hair than the S1 perm and naturally left hair receiving less damage than heat treated hair. Fourth, seeing the SEM photos, when cysteine HCL and Ammonium thioglycolate were used, cuticles sometimes slightly came off or became thinner but no damage could be seen by the naked eye and the hair looked glossy and had good springiness. In the case of damaged hair that had first been dyed and then permed , although there were a little more cuticles that slightly came off or became thinner than healthy hair, hair that used cysteine HCL were not damaged that much. No damage could be seen by the naked eye and the hair looked glossy and the waves had good springiness. So from the third treatment, caution is needed to prevent the hair from being badly damaged. In the case of healthy+damaged hair that used cysteine HCL and Ammonium thioglycolate, in the case of the fourth group of treatment that had used Ammonium thioglycolate when formally examined they showed a lot of damage, and when seen by the naked eye the epidermal layer showed contraction, strain and less elasticity of the waves. Hair that used cysteine HCL and treatment did not receive much damage. In the case of the setting waves of healthy and damaged hair using cysteine HCL and Ammonium thioglycolate the results after chemical treatment for healthy hair were cuticles that slightly came off and for damaged hair that used Ammonium thioglycolate, it had worse hair conditions than healthy hair waves. No damage could be seen by the naked eye and the hair looked glossy and had good springiness. As for the result of the formal change of the cross treatments done before and after dyeing to 3N, 5R 9R; a lot of damage of observed. The treatment in which the perm using Ammonium thioglycolate was done after dyeing showed the most damage. The surface form on the cuticle layer differed greatly before and after the treatment, and the outer layer of the skin showed various places where they had come off, and one side had been cratered. Due to the abrasion of the outer layer of the skin the exfoliation and cracking of the scale became worse, sometimes leading to the exposure of the cortex. There were cases of it coming off and swelling in the irregular shape of stairs making it look enlargened and the process of cuticles partly coming off were observed. Fifth, the result of the verification of the hypothesis were hypothesis1;, hair that had used treatment had better setting capabilities and preservation rate than hair that didn't, hypothesis2; hair that had been naturally left had better setting capabilities and preservation rate than heat treated hair, hypothesis3; the S1 perm had better setting capabilities but the preservation rate turn out to be lower than ordinary perms, hypothesis4; compared to hair that had been permed using heat ordinary perms caused less damage to the hair, hypothesis5; virgin hair had good setting capabilities and preservation rate, hypothesis6; the setting capabilities and preservation rate were better in the order of VHR> DHR> V+DHR. Hypothesis7; the setting capabilities and preservation rate were better for perms done before dyeing than perms done after. I learned that today when there are a lot of chances to chemically treat hair that has been severely damaged, the attitude to be well informed of the structure and characteristics of the hair in order to minimize its damage rather than just doing beauty treatments for looks is important, and that hair damage could be minimized according to the skills of the hair designer.