참깨 단백질과 오일의 전처리가 탈색모 손상방지에 미치는 영향

Abstract

Changes in hair-style generally affect the first impression of personal beauty. Frequent cosmetic treatments of permanent curling, pigmentation, and excessive exposure to ultraviolet radiation increase damage against hair health. The abuse of the indiscriminate use of hair styling products and hair appliances are increasing. Such hair damage includes oil-loss and nutrient-loss in hair and it causes structural changes of proteins within cells. So the importance of right hair treatments to minimize hair damage during hair-style procedure has emerged as a new trend in the beauty salon and the clinic. Recently, hair products also tend to increase their ingredients derived from natural sources. Meanwhile, the plant oil in cosmetic or cleansing products are extensively and has been used as an additive, such as hair treatments and shampoos. Better hair cosmetics were shown effective in protecting the cuticle of the hair, in circulating blood flow, and in improving scalp conditions. Many unsaturated and saturated fatty acids, amino acids, minerals, and vitamins are abundant in sesame seed and it contains powerful anti-oxidants also. The purpose of this research is to investigated the protective effect of sesame seed extracts on hair damage caused by hair bleaching by applying the hydrophilic (proteins) and hydrophobic (oils) extracts as a pre-treatment agent. The sesame seed powder has been treated with alkaline protease enzyme resulting in three samples; SP (water-soluble protein, Sesame protein), SO (Sesame Oil) and SM (a mixture of protein and oil). The antioxidant levels of the three samples were measured. Sesame oils’ antioxidant capacity results showed a 10 times higher than that of water-soluble protein with sesame, ABTS radical scavenging activity measurement resulted in approximately 8 times showed a higher antioxidant activity. Also, sesame protein extracted by the enzyme is measured content is as high as 94.5 ㎎/ml. Several analysis techniques were applied to the bleached hair before and after the treatment; the thickness of hair, the tensile strength of hair, the hair surface measurement using electron microscopy imaging, optical imaging microscope, and atomic force microscope imaging. The thickness of the treated hair was increased a little in an average, while SM-treated sample (10%) showed the highest value. Tensile strength measurements in SM-treated sample (10%) showed the highest increase to 28.9% and the order was SM > SO > SP. An electron microscope, optical microscope, and atomic force microscope observation were evaluated to give the state of the cuticle stable exhibiting a damage-preventing effect. In summary, it is likely for sesame proteins and oils to be useful for a hair treatment agent to prevent hair damage. Especially, SM will be a valuable ingredient for the application as a potential material for hair cosmetics in the future.|본 연구는 반복적인 탈색으로 인하여 가중된 모발손상을 방지하고자 참깨 추출물을 이용하여 전처리제로 적용하였다. 시료는 효소 처리하여 추출된 SP(수용성단백질, Sesame protein), SO(오일, Sesame oil) 그리고 SM(단백질과 오일의 혼합물, Sesame & oil)을 2차적 탈색 과정에서 사용하였다. 실험에 적용된 모발의 분석은 모발의 굵기, 인장강도 및 신장율 측정, 전자현미경 이미지 관찰, 광학현미경 이미지 관찰, 원자힘현미경 이미지 관찰, 항산화측정 및 시료의 단백질을 정량하였다. 실험결과 모발의 굵기는 SM 10% 처리된 모발이 대조군에 비하여 가장 높은 47.682% 증가되었으며, 시료를 농도별로 적용했을 시 SM은 농도가 증가될수록 현저하게 증가되었으나 SO는 유사하였다. 인장강도 측정결과 SM 10% 적용 모발이 가장 높은 28.920% 증가를 나타내었으며, 각 시료 처리별 증가는 SM〉SO〉SP로 나타났다 그러나 무처리 시료는 탈색이 증가될수록 감소하였다. 전자현미경, 광학현미경, 원자힘현미경의 이미지 관찰 비교에서 공통적으로 SM 10% 시료모발은 가장 큐티클의 상태가 안정적으로 평가되었으며, 손상방지 효과를 나타내었다. 특히 원자힘현미경으로 측정된 큐티클의 들뜸 현상 굴곡의 깊이가 SM 모발에서 0 ~ 400㎚ 범위로 나타나, 무처리된 2차적 탈색모발의 –300 ~ 300㎚ 굴곡보다 현저한 개선효과를 확인할 수 있었다. 항산화능 측정결과 참깨오일은 참깨 수용성 단백질 보다 10배 가량 높은 항산화능을 나타내었으며, ABTS radical 소거능 측정 결과에서도 약 8배 정도 높은 항산화능을 보여 주었다. 또한 효소를 이용하여 추출된 참깨 단백질은 함량이 94.5㎎/㎖로 높게 측정되어 손상방지 에이전트로 한 모발 트리트먼트제로 유용하게 사용될 가능성이 있으며, 특별히 SM은 모발 화장품의 잠재적인 소재로서 응용의 가치를 제시하고자 한다.