유칼립투스 잎 추출액에 의한 다양한 천연염색 방법과 활용

Abstract

The twenty-first century is a time of health and environment, and accordingly, there has been increasing interests in natural dyeing. There are countless studies on natural dyes but only a few on dyeing herbs. As eco-printing is becoming popular, eucalyptus is widely used by many dye artists. Eco-printing is a dyeing technique that involves arranging eucalyptus leaves on a cloth, applying pressure to bind them and applying vapor heat treatment so that the structures and colors of the leaves are imprinted on the cloth. It was confirmed that the structure of eucalyptus leaves were stamped on the cloth in reddish yellow. Unfortunately, there is no study nor educational data on eucalyptus in South Korea and the need for its potential as a natural dye has increased. The eucalyptus is originally from Australia and is currently imported as a floricultural hub, but it has also been used for years as a natural color scheme. Domestic eucalyptus varieties are also trading in the flower market. As a result of dyeing imported and domestic products and extracting the saline solutions, the extraction of imported eucalyptus is much stronger than that of domestic products, so the imported eucalyptus leaves were used in this study. The dye solution extracted from eucalyptus leaves was analyzed for its dyeing properties on silk and wool fabrics. Adequate dyeing condition for silk fabrics was dye solution concentration of 100%, dyeing temperature of 80℃, and dyeing time of 50 minutes. Adequate dyeing condition for wool fabrics was dye solution concentration of 100%, dyeing temperature of 90℃, and dyeing time of 50 minutes. When the pH level of salt bath was adjusted, highest dyeing volume was at pH5 and red and yellow hues diminished at pH9. Fabrics post-processed with Cu mordant had light yellowish brown hue and fabrics post-processed with Fe mordant had dark gray and brown hues. After dyeing, the fabrics were sundried and washed. The difference in colors varied significantly indicating that color fastness to washing was poor. Because the surface colors of the fabrics of Al and Fe lake printed fabrics using colors extracted from eucalyptus leaves and salt lake printed fabrics varied by the characteristics of lake and salt lake, they could be applied differently in natural dye textile printing by different purposes. When analyzed the change in printing by rolling dyeing method, using various eucalyptus leaves, after hot steam and water processing and post-processed with non-mordant salt, citric acid and iron sulfate, the most optimal mordant with the best color and formative reproduction was citric acid post-processing. It enabled a wide range of textile patterns exploiting various shapes of leaves and arrangement methods developed by the researcher. It was disclosed from the results that the color extracted from eucalyptus leaves was reddish yellow tone that could be manifested in a wide spectrum of shades with varying concentration of dye solution, dye time, mordant treatment and lake formation. A database was made using Pantone color matching system. In textile printing, it can be used to develop printing natural dye textile fabrics, and a comparative analysis was performed to determine varying levels of color and shape displays by rolling dyeing various eucalyptus leaves. The rolling dyeing method proposed in this study may create a wide range of textile patterns using a small portion of plants and applying a single unit pattern that has simple, natural and beautiful color and shape. This study was conducted to determine the value of eucalyptus as a dye product and to develop patterns and products. It was confirmed that dip dyeing and textile printing techniques could be employed to make textile products including cushions, bedding and garments. It is necessary to further study the dyeing properties of different eucalyptus varieties. So far, it was confirmed that the extract from eucalyptus leaves could be applied in various natural dyeing methods to develop various textile fabrics to be made into bedding, garments and other daily goods. key word : Eucalyptus, Natural dye, Lake, Printing, Textile, Pantone