펌 모발의 손상방지를 위한 생화학적 처리법

Abstract

Wishes for personal beauty has developed a perm style of hair. General perm agent is divided into a reductant (reducing agent) and an oxidant (oxidizing agent). By the action of a reducing agent, the structure of the hair is inflated, causing the breaking of sulfur bonds. Oxidizing agent, while, induces the recombination of the broken sulfur bond (disulfide bond). For this reason, the use of frequent perm products will ultimately make hair damaged. Most previous studies so far were of the reducing agent. Sometimes there is a study of adding natural products oxidizing agent, but the study of natural product materials that can replace the existing oxidizing agent is almost sparse. Purpose of this study is to prevent damaged hair and increase high efficiency of perm by using a natural substances of perm agent that is based on the enzyme and related materials. Commercial protease (Alcalase), Sparassis latifolia enzyme, fermentation broth of S. latifolia, and biochemical buffers were used as a perm agent. Hair perm has been completed for efficiency evaluation during 4 weeks, repeated daily shampoo, after drying in the direction of gravity, to measure the length of the hair. Length-measuring hair, the initial shrinkage (S), retention ratio (Sc & Sp), calculated at the recovery rate of the linear and (Sd)%. Because of damage prevention effect, the comparison of morphology using an electron microscope (× 2000), tensile strength and tensile congregation measurement, the thickness of the hair, of porosity measurements were carried out. In addition, the enzymatic activity and antioxidant capacity of S. latifolia were measured. Results of applying the test samples have been able to obtain a high effectiveness of perm as those compared to classical oxidizing agent. On the perm efficiency rating, initial shrinkage (S) was higher by (-)13.6 ~ (-)20% when the protease was applied heat perm process on 160℃ and 200℃. Also after four weeks, the Higher retention rate of wave because stretched degree (Sd) was (-)8.7 ~ (-)16.8% lower than using conventional oxidizing agent (p<.05). On the application of oxidizing agent S. latifolia enzyme, S was significantly higher in (-)36.4% in the time of use with glycine buffer. Moreover, Sd appears (-)28,5% so it was confirmed high wave-perm retention rate. However, S. latifolia fermentation broth, it did not confirm significant differences that S was (-)12.2% and Sd was (-)6%, but it verified the possibility of the oxidizing agent functions. Moreover it confirmed a high activities of antioxidant and protease. In the application of two types of buffers (glycine and borax buffer), glycine buffer showed a high efficiency of perm than the conventional oxidizer. It confirmed the possibility of the buffer can be used for function of the oxidizing agent alone. In application of protease, in the evaluation of hair damage prevention section, high temperature treatment (200℃) is confirmed loss of cuticle. Therefore 40~160℃ treatment was identified as stable. In the measurement of tensile strength, protease 0.01% dilution by applying an oxidizing agent was confirmed that prevent damage to the hair that express increase 17.7% at 80℃ and 9.7% at 160℃. These results confirmed the reduction of the damage in the process of the glycine buffer. These results S. latifolia extract containing the enzyme and the enzyme was avoid damage to the hair caused by the perm as well as increasing efficiency of the perm. Meanwhile, most of the previous studies have been focus on the reducing agent. Sometimes there was a study of adding an the natural oxidizing agent, but research of the natural material that can replace the existing oxidant is little. Therefore, environmentally friendly perm agent, S. latifolia extract and enzyme is considered to be developed to use an oxidizing agent for style of consumers and health of their hair.